Winter 2019

Journal del Pacifico winter 2019 cover by Kenny Viese, El Triunfo. Baja, Mexico

Winter 2019 cover by Kenny Viese

This Winter 2019 issue of Journal del Pacifico covers a wealth of regional history—silver mining in Baja California Sur and El Triunfo; Mark Spahr’s move to Todos Santos and El Triunfo and his recovery; long-term Todos Santos resident Ezio Colombo, and he and his wife Paula Rafelson’s restaurant Café Santa Fé; and one woman’s mission to share the history of local ranches and their unique products.

Like many visitors, I have fond memories of my first trip to Todos Santos in 1993 and the delicious meals and welcoming hospitality of Paula and Ezio at Café Santa Fé.

Mark Spahr´s first restaurant, Caffé Todos Caffe El Truinfo, El Triunfo, Baja, MexicoSantos, and current restaurant, Caffé El Triunfo, have been popular breakfast and lunch destinations for decades. Mark was one of nine people featured in the documentary, film called The Age of Disconnection, which will be shown at this year’s Festival de Cine de Todos Santos y La Paz. You can read more about it in this issue’s story by local artist Nanette Hayles.

Photographer Kenny Viese provided our cover shot and many beautiful photos of El Triunfo for Bryan Jáuregui of Todos Santos Eco-Adventures’ fascinating tale of the Ruta de Plata.

Ángela “Yera” Cota’s “El Mercado Ranchero” celebrates the handmade products and produce of Baja California ranches. Lisa Jackson’s story shares Yera’s dream of providing a unique market for ranchero wares like traditional pottery, handmade knives, furniture, and furnishing. Mercado Ranchero also has fresh chickens every Saturday, organic eggs, and ranch cheeses.

Shut Up Frank’s, a different local institution, is open again, Wednesday through Monday, with seven TVs showing all sports including UFC and boxing. Frank’s 22nd annual St. Patrick’s Day corned beef and cabbage feast is March 17, starting at 3 pm.

Amor D'Vino, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoBesides selling the best in Baja wines, Amor d’vino has gourmet olive oil, chutneys, salsas and more. Their restaurant is also open Monday through Friday, 5 to 7 pm. Enjoy a glass, or bottle of Baja wine with your dinner!

Comfort Care, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoGrowing old in Baja is becoming a reality for many ex-pats. Now Comfort Care & Assistance is providing options for assisted living, hospice care, and information about death and dying in Mexico.

St. Jude’s Pharmacy, next door to their clinic, has prescription medications and orthopedics. They speak English and are open late until 11 pm.

Last issue, we placed Taller de Terreno a bit too close to town on our otro lado map. They are located farther out on the road to Las Playitas and are having their grand opening event as part of the Todos Santos Artists Open Studio Tour.

Also participating in the Todos Santos Artists Open Studio Tour, Cate Thomassen, shardArtist, creates beautiful mosaics—hangings, tables, water features, lamps, and commissions—inspired by nature. She uses stained and vitreous glass, and polished and unpolished minerals.

Casa Las Tunas has comfortable units complete with kitchens on the otro lado of Todos Santos. They are available daily, weekly, or monthly.

Bleu, in the garden at Galería Ezra Katz, serves amazing Mediterranean breakfasts and lunch. They are also available for catering and special events.

Pacifica Fish Market seafood restaurant now has a full bar and is open until 9 pm, Tuesday through Saturday.

Mail Boxes Todos Santos is now open! They provide mail boxes with a US address (up to four people) plus shipping of packages, vehicles, boats, and trailers—even entire households!

Why worry about thieves? Get peace of mind with Pacifico Storage with enclosed units, automotive, boat, ATV, camper, and household storage. They are located at KM 45 on highway 19.

Casa Kootenay, La Paz, Baja, MexicoCasa Kootenay bed and breakfast is a romantic getaway on the beach on the Sea of Cortez in La Paz. Relax by the pool, or launch your kayak or stand up paddle board right from the beach out front!

Dana’s Office is now open in La Paz. Dana and her husband Alastair build custom homes, as well as offer full real estate services.

Looking to start a new adventure in Mexico? Allende Books in La Paz is for sale.

You’ll see us next issue, Spring 2019 with information on the GastroVino Baja Food & Wine Festival and more! The deadline for ads and articles is March 10.

Festival 2016

Festival 2016 cover of Journal del Pacifico by Lucas BennettThis issue, Festival 2016, the husband and wife team of Lucas Bennett and Zoë Dearborn from Art for Life contributed the feature stories on Estudio Cuatro Vientos and photos for our cover and Pescadero surf hotels.

Also in this issue, Bryan Jáuregui of Todos Santos Eco Adventures shares the legend of “El Mechudo” with Sea of Cortez and diving photos by The Cortez Club.

Looking for a special place to dine in Los Cabos? It doesn’t get any better than the De Cortez Contemporary Grill in the Hacienda Sheraton del Mar. Enjoy the moment with
a delicious dinner overlooking the Sea of Cortez. Call the concierge for reservations at 52 624 1456113 ext 4087.

Blue Moon Productions presents “Alice Down the Rabbit Hole” a new spin on an old tale. Performances are on the weekends of February 26 & 27 and March 3, 4 & 5 at Teatro Luna Azul on the otro lado of Todos Santos. Tickets are available at El Tecolote Bookstore.

Join in the fun at Shut Up Frank’s 20th Annual St. Paty’s Day in Todos Santos. The party starts at 4 pm with Frank’s own corned beef, marinated for one month in a special
brine and turned every three days until it’s just perfect. It’s the most delicious corned beef ever! Shut Up Frank’s is now open 7 days a week with different daily specials.

Miguel’s Restaurant is just across the street, serving delicious chiles rellenos and seafood specialties and is now open every day.

In the Spirit, located on Juárez near Topete in Todos Santos, is a new clothing store with the subtle fusion of the bohemian way and modern style. The shop features an
artist collective, beachwear, jewelry and accessories.

New hours and new live music nights at Chill N Grill in Todos Santos. Now open Tuesday through Saturday with open mic nights on Tuesday, and live music alternating
weekly between Friday nights with “JamaRama” and classic rock on Saturday nights. Call for this week’s details and get out and dance!

Nomac Chic, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoNomad Chic, with locations in Sonoma, California and on calle Juárez in Todos Santos, is an evolving collection of apparel, jewelry, furniture and home accessories from around the globe. They specialize in products by independent designers that you won’t find in most stores; designers that are giving back to their communities.

Rumi Garden, on calle Degollado in Todos Santos, is a popular Asian restaurant with a variety of organic friendly entrees including many vegetarian and vegan dishes. Their
lovely location also hosts Open Readings, once a month, and live music on select evenings. They also offer free delivery in Todos Santos and el Pescadero with a minimum
order of three entrees. Call or stop in for details.

Monica Avila is back in Todos Santos in her new office located on calle Del Huerto. With over 25 years’ experience, Monica is bi-lingual, and can help you with notary and legal
services, trusts and contracts.

Chez Laura, the affordable French restaurant in Todos Santos, now has a “happy hour” with wine and tapas for 60 pesos, from 1 to 5 pm. Relax and enjoy in a lovely garden
setting.

Freesouls Cerritos, Cerritos Beach, Baja, Mexico

Freesouls Cerritos, photo by Janna Kinkade

We’d like to congratulate Freesouls, at Playa Cerritos, on their one year anniversary this Valentine’s Day. As of press time, this beautiful location was close to serving their
10,000 customer. Stop in to experience fine but relaxed dining overlooking Cerritos beach.

The Joy of Floating offers a true weightless experience inside of a floatation tank filled with warm Epsom salt. Veronica, with 20 years’ experience working with chiropractors, acupuncturists, and osteopaths, also offers effective and thorough bodywork. “I can now lift my arm!” one client with a skiing injury said after her first float. The spa is located in Pescadero next to Baja Beans. Appointment recommended.

Gypsy’s Beach House Rentals has been providing surfers and travelers accommodations in Baja since 1967. They have a selection homes and villas for short or long term rentals in the Cerritos, Pescadero and Todos Santos area.

Pueblo Pescadero is a thoughtfully planned, affordable and sustainable community of recreational homes currently under construction in Pescadero. Their master planned
community provides a collection of one, two and three bedroom freestanding casas.

Need a ride from your hotel to the beach or to your favorite restaurant? Rudolfo of Brody’s Pizza at Cerritos beach is now offering Taxi Los Cerritos. Call +52 612 157 9049.

Be sure to stop by the Galería de Todos Santos and Pez Gordo Gallery at Shoppes at La Palmilla to see new sculptures in glass by Jill Casty. You can also see the “fantasia”
photographic works by Emanuela Gardner at the Galería de Todos Santos.

Enjoy all the festivals this February and March in Baja California Sur! The deadline for our next issue, Spring 2016 is March 10.

 

Happy New Year

"Baja's first Rock Band" Journal del Pacifico Holiday 2015/2016 cover by Dennis McGhee, Baja, Mexico

“Baja’s first Rock Band” Journal del Pacifico Holiday 2015/2016 cover by Dennis McGhee

Happy New Year from Journal del Pacifico! We’ve received a lot of compliments on our Holiday 2015/2016 issue cover featuring the hand painted skull by artist, “Indian” Dennis McGhee.

The 2016 La Poza Lagoon calendars are available at El Tecolote bookstore in Todos Santos and Allende Books in La Paz. These beautiful calendars help support the efforts to save La Poza lagoon and feature photography by Claude Vogel, Kaia Thomson, Alvaro Colindres and others.

The 5th annual Todos Santos Music Festival with Peter Buck and friends takes place January 14 to 16, and January 20 to 23. General admission is available for all shows. There is also a special acoustic dinner show at Rancho Pescadero on January 19. Contact Rancho Pescadero for tickets and more information. You can read the entire feature including artist’s bios online at journaldelpacifico.com

The new La Morena Restaurant Bar, located on calle Juárez in Todos Santos, just down the street from Galería Logan and Snell Real Estate, is open for breakfast, lunch and tapas. They serve espressos, ristrettos, lungos, lattes, frappes, chais, smoothies, paninis, healthy salads as well as tacos and other entrees. In the evenings, enjoy an appetizer with wine, served by the bottle or by the glass. Cold beer, margaritas, cocktails or a cool martini are also on the menu.

La Bohemia Hotel Pequeño on calle Rangel in Todos Santos, is having an open house every Thursday and Saturday from 4 to 8 pm with delicious treats from Mama’s Kitchen and special cocktails and wine 2 for 1 from 4 to 6 pm.

Landi’s Restaurant, next to Teatro Márquez de León on the plaza, is open Tuesday through Saturday, 12 to 9 pm, serving delicious traditional Mexican dishes. They are also open 9 am to 2 pm for their special Sunday brunch.

If you’re looking for a sweet treat for the holidays, or anytime, Chocolates La Laguna in Todos Santos, has champagne truffles, pumpkin spice truffles, and white chocolate bark with cranberries.

México Gourmet in Todos Santos has a variety of Mexican made edibles including spices, jams, jellies, moles and salsas, and is well known for its large stock of mescales. Stop in for a tasting!

Étnica, across the street from La Copa and The Todos Santos Inn in downtown Todos Santos, has beautiful Mexican clothing, accessories and fabulous tooled leather purses, wallets, boots and more.

Casita Anita has moved. The new, spacious location is on calle Militar in Todos Santos, next door to Gallery 365. Her new location has a whole new look that includes more room for Pepita Nelson Fashions.

Santa María Boutique has a large selection of 100% cotton fashion clothing for men, women and children at their two locations in Todos Santos—in Plaza Adriana across from the Centro Cultural and Plaza Los Faroles, just ½ block from the Hotel California.

You can take control of your water and your health. Water Ways Baja is your home town drinking water resource. Residential or commercial, all systems are custom designed based upon contaminants in your water and your needs. Water test results are in writing from independent certified water laboratories.

Unwind and rejuvenate your spirit at Casablanca b&b on the La Poza hill in Todos Santos. Guests enjoy their elegant accommodations, delicious meals or the chance to simply relax by the pool.

Restaurant Miguel’s across the street from Shut Up Frank’s, has long been famous for their chilies rellenos, fresh seafood and traditional Mexican fare. Now they are open for breakfast again, 8 am to 10 pm, Tuesday through Saturday.

The new rooftop Riptide Bar at Desert Moon Hotel at Cerritos beach is open. Stop in for an adult beverage and a great view any time from 9 am to 10 pm.

There’s something for everyone to fall in love with at Cerritos Beach Inn. Located just steps from the swimmable beach and surf break at Cerritos beach in Pescadero guests can also enjoy ocean, mountain and desert views and whale watching. There are brand new ocean front and desert view suites, as well as a restaurant and pool. Cerritos Beach Inn is also available for wedding and special events.

MiniSuper Munchies in Pescadero is much more than a gourmet store. There is a book exchange, lending library, community bulletin board, and pop up dinners with local chefs. Check with Emily on their weekly events.

There’s always something going on at Dana’s Diner on the highway in Pescadero. Daily happy hour, NFL football, guest chef nights, live music and karaoke nights. Call or stop in and check with Dana for more information.

Want coffee? Baja Beans Roasting Company in Pescadero is now open every day from 8 am to 4 pm.

Brody’s Pizza on the road to Cerritos beach is open 1 to 10 pm and serves Italian style wood oven pizza, pastas, salads and cold beer! Home delivery is available too.

The 7th Annual 2016 Todos Santos Open Studio Tour will be held over two days: Saturday and Sunday February 6 and 7 from 10 am to 4 pm. It’s a great way to explore the world of the artists, who live and work in this artists’ colony. Tickets for the Todos Santos Artist’s Studio Tour are good for both days and can be purchased online at www.brownpapertickets.com or in person at El Tecolote Bookstore beginning February 1. Maps and wristbands can be picked up at Cafélix both mornings of the Studio Tour. All proceeds will benefit the Children’s Art Programs of the Palapa Society of Todos Santos A.C.

We’d like to especially thank our translators that make it possible to publish many of our feature stories in English and Spanish: Paula Angeloni, Elena Ascencio Ibáñez, Kat Bennett, Isabel Jáuregui and Vivianne Jáuregui Mariño. ¡Gracias!

We’ll see you in February 2016 with our Festival issue. The deadline is January 12. Reserve your space today!

Fall 2015

Journal del Pacifico Fall 2015 cover by Kaia ThomsonIt was a long, hot summer with lots of changes, but Journal del Pacifico, your ultimate guide to Baja California arts, culture and adventure, is back and ready for an exciting new season!

Once again, in our Fall 2015 issue, Bryan Jáugerui of Todos Santos Eco-Adventures has written a fascinating article on the importance of mangroves to our fragile coastal ecosystem and how they are threatened by developments. Bryan and her husband, Sergio, will also be speakers at this season’s Todos Santos Writers Workshop in January 2016, “Earth Needs Writers!” See our article in this issue for more information.

The multi-talented Kaia Thomson provided many of the photos for species living amongst the mangroves, this issue’s dramatic cover shot, plus a little fun with area rock formations. She also took the stunning lunar eclipse photos from September 2015 for “El Cielo.”

Mangrove Collage by Tori Sepulveda and Students

Mangrove Collage by Tori Sepulveda and Students

We’d also like to thank the art class of Tori Sepulveda for their lovely collage of the mangrove lifecycle, which was created just for this article. The artists who created this collage were: Tori Sepulveda, Monica Devine, Carol Bailey, Susan Willison, Joanne Spinoza, Christina Douglas and William Dubroraw.

Michael Cope of Galería de Todos Santos shares his experience over the past 20+ years painting and running a gallery in Southern Baja in this issue’s Art Talk.

Also in this issue, Bruce Bennett of Allende Books in La Paz reviewed the bilingual photographic book Tendiendo Redes / Tending Nets by La Paz photographer Alejandro
Rivas Sánchez.

We’d like to welcome Snell Real Estate to Todos Santos. You can find their offices on the newly repaved calle Juárez in Galería La Poza.

Rancho Pescadero is excited to announce their Guest Chef Weekends, a series featuring top culinary talents offering cooking classes, special dinners and more. The series starts November 12-15, with Renee Erickson, author of A Boat, a Whale and A Walrus and Chef/Owner of The Walrus and the Carpenter, The Whale Wins, and Barnacle in Seattle, plus three new projects opening this fall. In March 2016, Jessica Koslow of the Los Angeles restaurant Sqirl and the soon-to-open Sqirl Away, will be the Guest Chef. Following Knowles, in April will be Executive Chef/Partners Thomas McNaughton and Ryan Pollnow of Ne Timeas Restaurant Group in San Francisco (flour + water, Central Kitchen, Aatxe, Café du Nord, salumeria). In May, the resort will host Greg Denton and Gabrielle Quiñónez Denton of OX Restaurant in Portland; the couple will be releasing their first cookbook Around the Fire in March 2016.

This November, Pescadero Surf Camp presents Desert Moon—a new hotel right on the Cerritos beach surf break—the perfect location for relaxation and sports activities.
Each of their large rooms with kitchenettes has an ocean view.

Just up the road, FreeSouls offers an amazing culinary experience at Cerritos beach, featuring wood-fired pizzas, fish, lamb, steaks and homemade desserts. Not to mention
the rooftop, ocean view Mediterranean bar and heated swimming pool.

Need a ride? Todos Santos Private Transportation provides professional airport transportation, private car service, transportation for wedding parties, and shopping
services to La Paz or Cabo at daily and hourly rates.

Shut Up Frank’s, Todos Santos’ first sports bar, is under new management. John Brown, with over 40 years bar and restaurant experience, has partnered with Frank Henley. In
addition to the locals’ favorite menu items, John has added his family recipe for Southern fried chicken, homemade meatloaf, world-famous chili, chili dogs and chili cheese
fries—as well as many new specials to come during the season.

Start your NFL Sundays with 2×1 Bloody Marys at Chill N Grill. They’ve also added tasty grilled French bread pizzas topped with pepperoni, veggies and cheese to their menu. Check their facebook page for upcoming live music events. Like their Halloween Party, Friday, October 30th.

Hosting a party or celebrating an upcoming event? Baja Pastry Girl makes custom desserts, cakes, ice cream and pastry with locally sourced and organic ingredients. Her
specialties include pumpkin pie, apple pie, three-berry pie, key lime pie, cheesecake, ginger rum Bundt cake, pumpkin cream pie, fudge, holiday cookies, macaroons, red velvet
cake and fruit tortes. Baja Pastry Girl needs three day notice for an order—call or email now!

New this season, The Todos Santos Speaker Series. This series features six different speakers covering Baja California natural science subjects. Author Graham
Mackintosh, starts the series on December 4, at the Centro Cultural “Prof. Nestor.” Upcoming speakers include: Dr. Jon Rebman, author of the 3rd edition of Baja California
Plant Field Guide; Stephanie Rousso of ProFaunaBaja; and “Indigenous Rock Art of The Baja Cape Region” with Anibal Lopez. Advanced tickets are available at El Tecolote
Bookstore.

ATV Adventures in Las Playitas (north of Todos Santos) provides ATV rentals, fishing and horseback riding. Call their cell (612) 156-4213 for more information.

January 2016, Peter Buck and friends will be back for the 5th Annual Todos Santos Music Festival in partnership with The Palapa Society of Todos Santos, A.C. featuring
the strongest musical lineup to date. See our exclusive stories next issue, Holiday 2015/2016. For more information and VI P tickets visit: http://todossantosmusicfestival.com/

We were saddened by the sudden passing of local graphic artist, Jan Piere on October 5. Jan was a frequent Journal del Pacifico advertiser, creative, strong willed and a
memorable person in our pueblo.