Winter 2021

Journal del Pacifico winter 2021 cover by Kaia ThomsonWelcome to our first Journal del Pacifico of 2021. We are excited about this issue and the great stories and photos and hope that you enjoy them!

Area businesses are working hard to stay open and keep both locals and visitors safe. Be aware that government mandated Covid-19 regulations change and posted business hours and availability as well.

Kaia Thomson of Todos Caballos provided our stunning Kestrel cover and her story and photos of the importance of getting out in nature and birding.

Bryan Jáuregui of Todos Santos Eco Adventures shares the story behind the headlines of a possible new whale species discovered here by Baja California Sur native, researcher Dr. Gustavo Cárdenas Hinojosa, with photos courtesy of the Sea Shepherd and CONANP.

Zocalo by LoveLeigh, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoThe Todos Santos/Pescadero area has long been known for outdoor activities and art, but it is increasing being known for fashion. In this issue, we introduce you to Zócalo, a clothing store/collective that most importantly is a social enterprise, which focuses on local Mexican artisans and makers.

You can find more rare gems with a stroll through the historic district of Todos Santos: soft colored cottons from Oaxaca and Chiapas, and hand tooled leather at Étnica; carefully curated items from around the world at Nomad Chic (see our story in the Holiday/Navidad 2020/2021 issue); locally designed and made swimsuits, clothing, and jewelry at Ella Bella Boutique; and one-of-a-kind treasures at Bésame Mucho Bazaar.

Brian McGuffey Art is now open in Plaza Amigos with a carefully selected array of custom jewelry and clothing, and of course, Brian’s colorful and whimsical art.

ULULA is a mystical gypsy heart boutique, specializing in magic and selling a curated offering of creations, clothing, and supplies. Everything is specifically and specially selected by Stephanie Penilla and Jessica Chappell for either its amazing story, native roots, magical power, or local beauty. Once you’ve visited, you will be called back for more magic.

Casa de Todos is a beautiful, open space furniture gallery on the otro lado of Todos Santos representing creative Mexican artists and sustainable vegetarian food to go.

Ernesto Vinatier, of Los Torotes in the Las Tunas area, is a Mexican architect specialized in urban planning and is passionate about sustainable architecture—energy efficiency, and high-performance buildings. His current focus is touristic urban planning and minimizing its pressures on the communities and natural environment.

Todos Santos Surf Shop / Explora Baja offers “Personalized Adventures by the Sea” including sport fishing, surf lessons, cliff hikes, whale watching, snorkeling with whale sharks and sea lions, Espíritu Santo island day trips, and La Paz city and beach tours. All activities are at a maximum of 30% capacity.

West Side Surf School, located at Cerritos beach, is a family owned and locally run business, founded by Heli “Tacho” Campos. They offer individual or group lessons for beginners, and surf coaches for surfers looking to improve their technique. Surf guides are also available for those looking to discover local breaks.

The 2021 Todos Santos Writers Workshop is virtual this year. They have commissioned a series of short videos, called “Video Salsa,” produced by Sarah Teale and shot and edited by Ricardo Madrazo. These videos will be posted daily and are intended to give workshop attendees a connection to Todos Santos. The videos are magnificent portrayals of life and culture in Todos Santos from an insider’s point of view, created for no commercial purpose and with no social agenda. Ricardo’s videography is gorgeous and the characters we see are authentic Todos Santos people who add something creative to life in the Pueblo Mágico. Click here to see these videos.

The dates have changed on Galeria Militar’s show Quien Calla, Otorga / Silence is Consent. You can still see it through February 23.

We’ll be back with our Spring/Primavera 2021 issue. Deadline is March 10.

Fall 2020

Journal del Pacifico Fall 2020 cover by Kate Turning, Todos Santos, Baja, Mexico

Journal del Pacifico Fall 2020 cover by Kate Turning

Welcome back!

The communities of Baja California Sur have been working through these trying times, finding ways to adapt to the many changes, figuring out business options, and reaching out to help those in need. These individuals are neither heroes nor saints but are the backbone of real community that we love. Like many small businesses, we’ve faced changes and challenges, but we are resilient like our Baja California pueblos. In this issue, we have fascinating local history, as well as current stories on how our communities are rising to carry on in the “new normal.”

Kate Turning once again has given us a stunning Day of The Dead themed cover based on Mexican master Diego Rivera’s painting “The Flower Vendor.”

It is sad that there will not be a large Día de los Muertos celebration in Todos Santos this year, but you can now participate in the Catrinas contest virtually. See Ivonne Benítez’s Covid Catrinas story.

Photographer Emanuela Gardner shared one of her recent photographs on the opening page of the feature story by Bryan Jauregui, of Todos Santos Eco-Adventures, the story of a Pericue named Fabian—a Todos Santos rebel—based on research by Dr. Shane Macfarlan.

Galería Militar is exploring how to show art in the pandemic age. They will be holding a series of socially distanced shows to a limited audience in-person and a wider online audience. See the article in this issue.

A Granel opened in Todos Santos right before the April shutdown, but that didn’t stop them with their quest to reduce waste while providing sustainable, affordable products that biodegrade in the environment. Read more about it in our article.

Five years ago, the co-creators of Women Awakening embarked on a new journey of self-discovery and love, bringing to the community of Todos Santos a Women’s Summit designed to foster connection and celebration to the women of Todos Santos and beyond. In 2020, Elemental Change: Engaging in Our Evolution was chosen as the theme. Not long afterwards, the entire world began a great and seismic shift that has indeed altered the entire trajectory of all our lives. ”We could never have known at that time of our themes choosing, that it would prove to be so apropos and timely.”

With deep contemplation and great consideration for the community, the co-creators are announcing the cancellation of the Annual Women Awakening Summit, previously scheduled for December 4 to 6, 2020. “We may be separate physically at this time, but we are all truly together in spirit, and want you to know you are not alone. We are with you. The bonds we have built these past five years have not broken and we will join together one day again, when the climate is right for such a gathering. We encourage you to take this pause as we are also doing, as a time of spaciousness.”
Women Awakening CO-Creators
Angelica Vélez Mendez
Marimar Higgins
Jill Mollenhauer
Elena Ascencio Ibañez
Arii Corona Miranda

The Todos Santos Writers Workshop will continue, in its eighth year, as a virtual event via Zoom on January 31 to February 6, 2021, adding novelist and long-time Todos Santos resident Joanna Hershon to the faculty. The team of creative writers and editors “dedicated to inspiring and furthering the art of the written word,” also includes editor/memoirist Jeanne McCulloch, journalist/screenwriter Rex Weiner, author/memoirist Karen Karbo and poet/author Christopher Merrill, director of the International Writing Program of the University of Iowa. The one-week event, this year, offers workshops via Zoom in Fiction, Poetry, Writing for Stage and Screen, and two classes in Memoir. Additional events will include craft seminars, panel discussions, social gatherings, and the opportunity to engage one-on-one with instructors. Tuition is $850US. For more information: www.todossantoswritersworkshop.com

Étnica now carries textiles for the home like cushions, runners, placemats, and napkins—all made in Mexico.

We’d like to welcome two business that have recently opened offices on calle Juárez in Todos Santos: Legal & Tax, attorneys and accountants, and DAR Design and Construction. Legal & Tax can help with all your legal, immigration, and accounting needs, while DAR will work with you to design and build your dream.

This is the first year that Pueblo Pescadero is launching for sale the “Hacienda” home, a 3-bedroom, 2-bath, with a 1350 sq.-ft. private garage available for secure storage.
The Mini Super Munchies crew welcomes everyone into the new season with a few great new additions to their sweet little shop. They will be offering in-house prepared, healthy fresh food ‘to go” with daily hot food specials and a pre-order pick up option. Check out their website for details and daily specials: http://www.minisupermunchies.com. And, of course, all safety protocols are in place.

Casa Maya & Barefoot Cantina Bar in the Barefoot Luxury’s property at Cerritos Beach features freshly caught and delectably prepared local seafood dishes, carefully selected meats, locally grown organic vegetables, an assortment of sushi, homemade pastas, soups, and salads. Barefoot Cantina offers a generous selection of ice-cold beers, fresh-squeezed margaritas, tasty cocktails, and an extensive wine selection.

Baja Beaters Renta Yota, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoNeed to get to the beach? Baja Beaters / Renta Yota has Toyota trucks for local rentals. Call or email for more information.

Allende Books has recently moved to a larger location close to the malecón near Sears in La Paz. In addition to an expanded inventory of books and gifts, they have a coffee shop, outdoor seating in the courtyard, Wi-Fi, and information on events and resources. Local artists have brought the interior and exterior walls alive with a dazzling display of the vibrant marine life found in the Sea of Cortez. Drop by and see their magical new space.

Pelican Theatre of La Paz has cancelled their 2021 production due to COVID-19.

This past summer, we featured advertisers on our blog including Irving de la Rosa, architect. When asked about his design philosophy, he stated: “To me, the important thing is that the people who will live in the spaces that I design are happy. As they look out their window, they see something beautiful: the ocean, the mountains, a tree, a bougainvillea. And that the spaces are bright, warm, and pleasant. If I could talk briefly about my philosophy that I believe is the most important thing in life, it is the physical, emotional, and spiritual health of a person—his connection with his environment, with nature. What I try to do in my spaces is create an equilibrium, a harmony in the person’s habitat.”

We look forward to seeing you with the Holiday/Navidad issue! The deadline is November 10.

Pro Paramedicos

On March 31, the same day BCS registered its first COVID-19 deaths, a group of volunteers comprised of marine biologists and medical personnel began a project they call “Pro Paramedicos.”

The handwriting was on the wall, the crisis was coming and our First Responders were nowhere near being ready. “These Paramedics, young people with big hearts and excellent training, many of whom are volunteers, have little or no equipment,” said Dr. Xchel Palafox, one of the founders of the project.

That same day in March they began to distribute Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) to the Paramedics in the La Paz Fire Department and Proteccion Civil La Paz. The effort expanded to cover more than 120 Paramedics in 9 different teams.

“The farthest to the north is Las Pocitas,” explained Pablo Ahuja, cofounder of Pro Paramedicos, “They cover 100 kilometers of highway, from marker 50 to marker 150, from Puerto Chale on the Pacific to San Evaristo on the Sea of Cortez. Small towns like Conquista Agraria, El Cien, and Dolores are part of their range. “

Before being supplied by “Pro Paramedicos” this team had no protection against the virus but now they are equipped with Faceshields, Full Body Suits, N95 masks and surgical gloves as well as surgical masks to put on every patient they treat, anyone of whom could be CV19 positive.

“To the south we supply the Bomberos and Paramedicos of Pescadero. This team is led by Comandante Griselda Sotelo, the first female Comandante Firefighter in Mexico. Her adult son Fernando is also in the unit. We stay in constant contact and visit them every few weeks to resupply their PPE,” said Ahuja.

The rest of the teams that are supplied with donations used to purchase PPE include Proteccion Civil in Los Barriles, Grupo Sierra in La Ventana/El Sargento, Los Planes, Todos Santos Bomberos and Grupo Calafia based in Camino Real.

“Calafia is the largest and most active unit and they have transported more Covid-19 cases than the other units. They have 27 Paramedics and five rigs that seem to be constantly on the move,” said Ahuja, “What´s even more amazing is that they are an all-volunteer team.”

While Covid-19 cases increase every day and the death toll mounts in the state we have seen more than 100 hospital personnel become infected and some have even died from the virus. The most recent being a Doctor from the ER at the ISSTE Hospital who died earlier this week.

A testament to the effectiveness of “Pro Paramedicos” and their PPE campaign is that not a single paramedic in the Municipality of La Paz has become infected by the virus despite their ever-increasing caseload in the last three months.

“We know Covid-19 is not going away, that the numbers keep growing and that the virus forced the Government to reverse the reopening as far as access to beaches and the Malecon. We pledge to keep seeking donations and keep buying PPE even though every day the prices go up and the PPE becomes harder to find,” said Ahuja. “On behalf of the Paramedics and their families I would like to thank all the donors.”

You can participate in this lifesaving project by calling Pablo at 612 154 9859 or by making a donation through PayPal to an account set up by Dr. Xchel Palafox https://www.paypal.me/xchelapp.

Winter 2020

Thank you for all the compliments we received for our Holiday issue with the fabulous Mark Gabriel cover, “El Rey.” We hope that you enjoy this issue with its great Baja stories, photos, and art.

Journal del Pacifico Winter 2020 cover by Pablo Marquez, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoPhotographer Pablo Márquez contributed this issue’s cover photo of La Poza lagoon. You can see more of his fine art prints at Galería Logan in Todos Santos.

Galería Logan is holding an art opening March 14, featuring new works by Lee Mothes and Jill Logan.

The Palapa Society of Todos Santos A.C. has two popular tours coming up—the Artists of Todos Santos Open Studio tour at the beginning of February and the ever popular biannual Todos Santos Historic Home tour. See this issue’s article for more information. And you can still get a copy of the 18-month Artists of Todos Santos calendar! All support The Palapa Society of Todos Santos programs.

Artist Ann Hebebrand has two more workshops coming up, Abstract possibilities and Painting with Neutrals. See events for more information.

In our Winter 2020 issue, Bryan Jáuregui of Todos Santos Eco Adventures shares the story of the Puppo brothers in the “Last Fishermen of Isla Espírtu Santo,” with photos by Keenan Shoal Werner. Trudi Angell of Saddling South also shares with us more background on the making of the film “La Recua, Dario’s Dream.”

Growing old in Baja is a reality for many ex-pats. Now Comfort Care & Assistance is providing options for assisted living, hospice care, and information about death and dying in Mexico. The Asociación de Colonias de Todos Santos’ (ACTS) mission is to help support neighborhood security, communication, preservation, and also publishes a community phone book.

Dylcor Design & Construction in Pescadero is a responsible building company that not only offers high-quality construction but helps the local community and supports the local fire department. See their ad in this issue.

The Boxing Room, Brian McGuffey, Todos Santos, BCS, MexicoThe Boxing Room on the otro lado of Todos Santos is now open. Brian teaches one-on-one professional boxing by appointment. It’s a great workout!

De la Rosa Architecture mixes contemporary design with traditional architecture, creating luminous spaces that connect with the sea, the mountains, and the desert. Check out their ad in this issue or visit: www.delarosaarchitecture.com

LoveLeigh Designs is an ethical fashion collection situated adjacent to Baja Beans Café in Pescadero. They work directly with local (many underprivileged) artisans, helping to generate an income for them and their families. Each piece in their store, and online, is handmade, tells a story, and every purchase helps someone in need. A portion of all sales goes to fund local projects, individuals, and communities in Baja California Sur.

Shut Up Frank's 25th annual St. Paty's Day, Todos Santos, BCS, MexicoYou won’t want to miss the 25th annual St. Paty’s Day celebration with Frank’s famous corned-beef and fixings on March 17th at Shut Up Frank’s in Todos Santos. Then head over to Todos Santos Brewing for a pint of beer and listen to some great music in the beer garden.

Amor d’Vino is located inside La Generala Restaurant in Todos Santos. In addition to stocking great Mexican wines and tequilas, they can make you a beach basket, and gift certificates are available. Contact them for weddings, private events, private tastings, and birthday parties, or stop in on Wednesday for a wine tasting 1 to 5 pm.

Dos Marias Day Spa, in Pescadero, is situated in a lovely garden setting and offers the ultimate in pampering with a variety of facials, body scrubs, massage treatments, and a Temazcal sweat lodge. It is time to treat yourself to some important self-care!

Todos Los Perros, certified professional dog training is now in Todos Santos. Contact them for group or private lessons. They specialize in dog socialization, obedience, and security K9s. My dog, Max, a recent AKC canine good citizen graduate, loves their classes!

Galería La Gitana on calle Hidalgo in downtown Todos Santos, features paintings by Jimena Garcia, unique ceramics, jewelry, and clothing that you won’t find anywhere else. You can also see Jimena’s work at the monthly Baja 100 art walks.

Chez Laura in Todos Santos serves delicious French specialties in an outdoor, romantic atmosphere. Besides their regular menu, they have daily specials and happy hour Wednesday through Friday.

Virginia Moonstone Mazzetti knows that some would find it insane to uproot from a life in Washington state and start over on a plot of land in Mexico. Most people couldn’t imagine doing something so daring, but she’s found others who have done the exact same thing. Through twenty interviews, Mazzetti explores the reasons for their odysseys and the peace, happiness, and adventure they have found in their new homes. You can find her book, Beginning Again in a Foreign Land, at El Tecolote Bookstore in Todos Santos.

We will see you in our next issue, Spring 2020. We’ll have more great stories, photos, art, and information on the GastroVino Baja Food & Wine festival! The deadline is March 10. And don’t forget, you can see every issue online at journaldelpacifico.com