Fall / Otoño 2013

We’ve received a lot of great feedback on the Summer issue White Sand Massage and Day Spa feature story. I’m glad that our readers enjoyed learning about facials as much as I enjoyed getting one. This issue I sat down over a couple of beers with local artist “Indian” Dennis to talk about his popular painted cow skulls.

Reading Rainbow producer Kyle Rohrbach filming biologist Stephanie Rousso, Baja, Mexico, Sea Turtles

Reading Rainbow producer Kyle Rohrbach filming biologist Stephanie Rousso

This fall I also had the opportunity to spend a night at “sea turtle camp” with Todos Santos Eco Adventures and their wildlife biologist Stephanie Rousso, who wrote “Moon Dance of a Sea Turtle” (JDP Summer 2013 issue). Reading Rainbow producer Kyle Rohrbach was along filming the night patrol for an upcoming episode. We had a lot of fun, learned a lot and saved four Olive Ridley turtle nests.
I hope to share more of my adventures with our readers in upcoming issues.
In this edition, look for our feature story on water—an important issue for all of us living in Baja California Sur. Local artist Nanette Hayles’ “Sea un Avatar” posters benefit the groups working against mining in the Sierra de la Laguna mountains (the source of our water) and are available at Galería NE Hayles and La Esquina in Todos Santos.

We’ve also included a sampling of fun restaurants in Todos Santos. For the complete series of reviews, visit Todos Santos Eco Adventures’ blog.

H2O Water Professionals sell and install state of the art water purification and conditioning systems for homes and businesses. Visit their showroom on Calle Madero in La Paz, or contact their Todos Santos / Pescadero representative.

Rancho la Venta is one of the oldest ranch sites in Southern Baja, located in a greenbelt between San Bartolo and San Antonio. You can enjoy horseback riding, hiking and bird watching on hundreds of acres of mountain trails, swim in their spring-fed granite pool, and lunch on authentic ranch fare including organic veggies from the garden. Touring the wine cellar, vineyard and art studio makes a great day trip, or stay overnight in one of their cozy casitas if you’d like to experience it all.

Many of Journal del Pacifico’s contributors have books coming out soon. Photographer Claude Vogel’s new collection of stunning photographs from the Hotel California is due out in November. Also in November look for Pamela Cobb’s Tales from Tiny Town, a compilation of her experiences since retiring to Todos Santos and illustrated by local artists.

Birding in Baja book by Kaia Thomson, Baja, MexicoPhotographer Kaia Thomson has shared some photos from her 12 years of birding in Baja California Sur on this issue’s cover and in our feature “Birding in Baja.” Her book Birding in Baja California Sur, published by Todos Santos Eco Adventures and produced by Journal del Pacifico, will be out soon!

You’ll be able to find all the above books at El Tecolote Bookstore in Todos Santos and Allende Books in La Paz. El Tecolote also serves up the best espresso in town at their Juice/Espresso Bar. Enjoy a latte, mocha, or Americano coffee or have a delicious juice or smoothie made to order from their large selection of local fruits and veggies! Mmm…

Just behind El Tecolote Bookstore you can find the best handmade chocolates in Todos Santos at Chocolates La Laguna. This year they will also have full-size chocolate bars, including dark chocolate/peppermint, dark chocolate/orange and 66% Mexico Origin dark chocolate.

Jackie Scherer and Keith Van Cleve have published the 4th edition of Some Birds of Baja / Algunas Aves de Baja California (see article in JDP Spring 2012 #4 issue). This book is for sale at the San José Organic Farmer’s Market and at Liga MAC bookstore in San Jose del Cabo.

The improvement project in the “pueblo nuevo” part of Todos Santos has been completed and all the newly paved streets are one way streets now. We’ve highlighted all the one ways in yellow on our Todos Santos map with arrows showing the correct driving direction.

Rancho Pescadero is open again after their summer remodeling. November 14 through 17, they are hosting “The Best of Baja Culinary Weekend.” A “mix + mingle” with Baja’s top chefs and renowned winemaker, Phil Gregory of Vena Cava. Activities include cocktails and cooking classes, demonstrations, wine and tequila tastings and, of course, gourmet dinners.

Hotel Guaycura was also busy remodeling this fall. Their beautiful boutique hotel, restaurant, pool and sky bar are open again in the historic district of Todos Santos. All that is missing is you!

Insurance agent Gaby Trujillo Coronado has opened a new office on the “otro lado” of Todos Santos, called Coronado & Fernandez. They can help you with your auto, home, health and life insurance needs. AF Design & Construction will be sharing the new office space.

Baja Zen yoga studio is now open near Los Cerritos beach. They have morning and evening yoga classes and many interesting workshops scheduled for the upcoming season. Visit their facebook page for details and a map to their location.

Brody’s Pizza, on the road to Cerritos beach, will be serving breakfast in addition to their tasty pizzas this season. Look for them to re-open in November.

Baja Retreats is a new retreat center in Pescadero. Yoga, art, surf, meditation, skim board, nature… Vacation with Inspiration! Call or visit their website for information.

The third Todos Santos Music Festival will take place at the Hotel California January 16 through 25, 2014. For more information, see our blog post and be sure to check out our great feature in the next issue of the JDP about the bands and festival.

If you’ve missed any of the articles or issues mentioned above, you can find them all online, read our blog and find our publishing schedule at: journaldelpacifico.com

Baja Outdoor Adventures

Kayaking on the Sea of Cortez with BOAThe weather right now is beautiful in Southern Baja. It’s a great time to get out and explore! I recently took two mini-vacations—one trip kayaking on the Sea of Cortez and the other whale watching in Magdalena Bay.

Sea kayaking in the Sea of Cortez is such a pleasant way to explore the rugged coast line and access secluded beaches. Paddling over the rocky areas gives you a great view of the vast life below the surface—sea anemones and urchins, snails and clams, schools of fish swimming past and crabs scrabbling over the rocky points. There’s a variety of birds to see as well—pelicans, seagulls, frigate birds and cormorants flying overhead and diving into the water to fish, while herons and egrets stay close to shore. Kayaking around Espiruto Santo island near La Paz also allows a close up view of a sea lion colony.

Baja Outdoor Activities (BOA) is offering a 20% discount to Baja residents and Journal del Pacifico readers on selected trips this season. Contact them today for more information. Call (612) 125-5636 or email: paddle@kayakinbaja.com for more information.

BOA Baja Outdoor Activities

Whale watching in Magdalena Bay is a once in a lifetime experience. Living here for over 16 years, I can’t believe that I’ve never done it before, so when Todos Santos Eco Adventures offered me the chance to join in with one of their groups I jumped. Most of my group members were retirees in their 60’s.

Our overnight trip started with an 8 am pickup by Mauricio, guide extraordinaire. The comfortable van whisked us to Lopez Mateos where we enjoyed lunch before heading out in the channels to view mother gray whales and their babies. The calm, shallow area allows you to see these gentle giants close up. Mauricio spotted whales and pointed out how to tell mothers from babies, which are actually born black but turn gray as they develop white patches from a skin parasite and barnacles attach themselves to their upper body. I was in charge of counting how many whales we spotted, but I confess, after 20 or 30, I lost count.

As we were making our way back towards land, we spotted one last group and stopped the boat. JoAnn and I eagerly splashed the water inviting the whales to come closer and visit us. One young whale came closer to take a look—boy was I surprised when it came up out of the water right by my face!

petting a gray whaleWe were amazed as the young whales made repeated trips over to the boat, lifting their faces out of the water to touch our hands. Our boat of “seniors” quickly sounded like children as we excitedly stuck out our hands to get a chance to touch their soft noses. The huge mother whale stayed back, but lifted her whole head out of the water to take a good look at us and give us a close up view of her face. She then went under the boat to scratch off barnacles—looking down at her back you could see them so clearly. She also rolled over and laid under the boat showing her belly. It was incredible to see such a huge, graceful creature close up.

We had dinner and spent the night in Puerto San Carlos and then headed out the next morning in Magdalena bay where the juveniles and adults hang out and mate. This is where you can get views of jumping and rolling–lots of tail views and flippers.

Our tired, but happy gang enjoyed one last lunch before climbing back into the van and our return to Todos Santos. For more information on whale watching in Magdalena Bay, contact Todos Santos Eco Adventures at: tsecoadventures@hotmail.com

Mother and baby Gray whale in Magdalena Bay