Art Talk – The Ghost Ranch

“Ghost Ranch - Homage to Georgia O’Keeffe” 24” x 36” oil/canvas by Jill Logan, Galeria Logan, Todos Santos, Baja, Mexico

“Ghost Ranch – Homage to Georgia O’Keeffe” 24” x 36” oil/canvas by Jill Logan

The Ghost Ranch, New Mexico
by Jill Logan, Galeria Logan

The wind was whipping up in gusts as I drove up the road to Abiquiu, New Mexico. Bold clouds parted to drop sunlight on white cliffs, backed against purple mountains. It had rained the night before and the air was clean and pure. Deep cobalt-blue skies were the backdrop to the layers of color that draped over the mountain crests.

Although I had been to Santa Fe many times over the last 30 years, I had yet to visit Georgia O’Keeffe’s home in Abiquiu and the Ghost Ranch where she spent the summers in her later life. The trip for me was monumental. The high desert of Northern New Mexico is breathtaking. I particularly love the chamiso sage-like plant, decorated with clusters of yellow flowers in Van Gogh like dancing forms. Great cottonwood trees, pines, sage—every level of elegance and tones of green—from the darkest to the bare touch of a dusty green decorate the vistas.

“In the evening with the sun at your back, that high, sage-covered plain looks like an ocean.” Georgia is quoted as saying, and, “The color up there—the blue-green of the sage, and the mountains, the wildflowers—is a different kind of color from anything I have seen. There is nothing like it in Texas, or even Colorado.”

O’Keeffe had a love affair with New Mexico from the first time she went in 1917 and always wanted to return, which she did in 1929. “I climbed way up on a pale green hill and in the evening light—the sun under clouds—the color effect was very strange—standing high on a pale-green hill where I could look all round at the red, yellow, purple formations—miles all around-the color intensified by the pale grey-green
I was standing on.” O’Keeffe,1935 letter to a friend.

Abstraction was in the wind in 1930. O’Keeffe played with visuals in a simplified pared down realism. Semi-abstractions with modeled forms and deep intense colors. Her flower series is perhaps some of her most famous renditions. Closeups with undulating forms and sensual visuals. Although she is quoted as saying it was not her intention to be sexual but rather that you slowed down to see deeply into the image as she had.
The land is raw and vibrant to this day. The views full with shapes and colors unique to this area of the world. O’Keeffe bought her home in 1945 in Abiquiu, where she mostly lived until her death in 1986. Summers she spent at the Ghost Ranch, some 13 miles from Abiquiu surrounded by majestic rock formations and peaks.

“Black Rock with Blue” is one of her stunning landscapes paintings. The smooth, rounded rock forms fill the canvas nearly touching the edges at either side. Black rock, white ground, blue sky—three simple colored shapes. The painting hangs on the end wall of her studio in Abiquiu. She is quoted as saying, “I felt that I had done what I wanted to do in it. I don’t always get what I try for you know.”

I returned from my trip this year with the intent to pay homage to her in some way. To use my photographs and her work as inspiration for a body of work in the gallery. I am sure I have not done justice to her creativity. I know her work from the museum in Santa Fe and the lines are clean and painterly. My work often has layer upon layer, and soft fuzzy edges.

I often work with dry brush as if it was chalk. So, in many ways we do not compare. But, perhaps the fact that I came to Todos Santos alone twenty-one years ago and felt this was the next Santa Fe, New Mexico, and was one of those making the art scene in town happen, I may be compared in a small way, to her. My artistic independence. Perhaps my desire to paint out of the box of realism and more into abstraction with bold colors and forms as well as brush strokes. I strive for a loose playful approach while casting light and shadow in a dance on the canvas. “Not always,” as O’Keeffe was quoted, “am I sure to hit the mark.” I am always working to develop more painterly skills while letting a spontaneous flow emerge. Now as a small body of work emerges from me with a homage to her, Georgia O’Keeffe, I hope to touch something of her soul.

Winter 2020

Thank you for all the compliments we received for our Holiday issue with the fabulous Mark Gabriel cover, “El Rey.” We hope that you enjoy this issue with its great Baja stories, photos, and art.

Journal del Pacifico Winter 2020 cover by Pablo Marquez, Todos Santos, Baja, MexicoPhotographer Pablo Márquez contributed this issue’s cover photo of La Poza lagoon. You can see more of his fine art prints at Galería Logan in Todos Santos.

Galería Logan is holding an art opening March 14, featuring new works by Lee Mothes and Jill Logan.

The Palapa Society of Todos Santos A.C. has two popular tours coming up—the Artists of Todos Santos Open Studio tour at the beginning of February and the ever popular biannual Todos Santos Historic Home tour. See this issue’s article for more information. And you can still get a copy of the 18-month Artists of Todos Santos calendar! All support The Palapa Society of Todos Santos programs.

Artist Ann Hebebrand has two more workshops coming up, Abstract possibilities and Painting with Neutrals. See events for more information.

In our Winter 2020 issue, Bryan Jáuregui of Todos Santos Eco Adventures shares the story of the Puppo brothers in the “Last Fishermen of Isla Espírtu Santo,” with photos by Keenan Shoal Werner. Trudi Angell of Saddling South also shares with us more background on the making of the film “La Recua, Dario’s Dream.”

Growing old in Baja is a reality for many ex-pats. Now Comfort Care & Assistance is providing options for assisted living, hospice care, and information about death and dying in Mexico. The Asociación de Colonias de Todos Santos’ (ACTS) mission is to help support neighborhood security, communication, preservation, and also publishes a community phone book.

Dylcor Design & Construction in Pescadero is a responsible building company that not only offers high-quality construction but helps the local community and supports the local fire department. See their ad in this issue.

The Boxing Room, Brian McGuffey, Todos Santos, BCS, MexicoThe Boxing Room on the otro lado of Todos Santos is now open. Brian teaches one-on-one professional boxing by appointment. It’s a great workout!

De la Rosa Architecture mixes contemporary design with traditional architecture, creating luminous spaces that connect with the sea, the mountains, and the desert. Check out their ad in this issue or visit: www.delarosaarchitecture.com

LoveLeigh Designs is an ethical fashion collection situated adjacent to Baja Beans Café in Pescadero. They work directly with local (many underprivileged) artisans, helping to generate an income for them and their families. Each piece in their store, and online, is handmade, tells a story, and every purchase helps someone in need. A portion of all sales goes to fund local projects, individuals, and communities in Baja California Sur.

Shut Up Frank's 25th annual St. Paty's Day, Todos Santos, BCS, MexicoYou won’t want to miss the 25th annual St. Paty’s Day celebration with Frank’s famous corned-beef and fixings on March 17th at Shut Up Frank’s in Todos Santos. Then head over to Todos Santos Brewing for a pint of beer and listen to some great music in the beer garden.

Amor d’Vino is located inside La Generala Restaurant in Todos Santos. In addition to stocking great Mexican wines and tequilas, they can make you a beach basket, and gift certificates are available. Contact them for weddings, private events, private tastings, and birthday parties, or stop in on Wednesday for a wine tasting 1 to 5 pm.

Dos Marias Day Spa, in Pescadero, is situated in a lovely garden setting and offers the ultimate in pampering with a variety of facials, body scrubs, massage treatments, and a Temazcal sweat lodge. It is time to treat yourself to some important self-care!

Todos Los Perros, certified professional dog training is now in Todos Santos. Contact them for group or private lessons. They specialize in dog socialization, obedience, and security K9s. My dog, Max, a recent AKC canine good citizen graduate, loves their classes!

Galería La Gitana on calle Hidalgo in downtown Todos Santos, features paintings by Jimena Garcia, unique ceramics, jewelry, and clothing that you won’t find anywhere else. You can also see Jimena’s work at the monthly Baja 100 art walks.

Chez Laura in Todos Santos serves delicious French specialties in an outdoor, romantic atmosphere. Besides their regular menu, they have daily specials and happy hour Wednesday through Friday.

Virginia Moonstone Mazzetti knows that some would find it insane to uproot from a life in Washington state and start over on a plot of land in Mexico. Most people couldn’t imagine doing something so daring, but she’s found others who have done the exact same thing. Through twenty interviews, Mazzetti explores the reasons for their odysseys and the peace, happiness, and adventure they have found in their new homes. You can find her book, Beginning Again in a Foreign Land, at El Tecolote Bookstore in Todos Santos.

We will see you in our next issue, Spring 2020. We’ll have more great stories, photos, art, and information on the GastroVino Baja Food & Wine festival! The deadline is March 10. And don’t forget, you can see every issue online at journaldelpacifico.com

Todos Santos Open Studio Tour

8th Annual Todos Santos Open Studio Tour

by Jill Mollenhauer

Anne Hebebrand, Todos Santos Open Studio Tour, Baja, Mexico

Anne Hebebrand

Every year it’s the talk of the town. The Todos Santos Open Studio Tour draws hundreds of people curious to see working art studios, meet the artists, and perhaps have a personal dialogue with them. Stories are exchanged; laughter flows and smiles glow on the faces of those who find something that seems to have been made especially for them.

At its inception in 2009, the then one-day tour boasted a mere handful of amazing talent. For 2017 the number of participating artists has grown to over 40, necessitating its extension to a two day event.

Benito Ortega, Todos Santos Open Studio Tour, Baja, Mexico

Benito Ortega

The 8th annual Todos Santos Open Studio Tour will be held on the weekend of February 11 and 12, 2017, from 10 am to 4 pm both days. All proceeds benefit the children’s art programs of The Palapa Society of Todos Santos, A.C. Advance ticket sales begin January 28, 2017. Tickets will be $200 pesos each and can be purchased in Todos Santos at El Tecolote Bookstore on Calle Juárez, or ordered online at ts.studiotour@gmail.com. Tickets can also be purchased at Cafélix in Todos Santos from 9 am to 3 pm both event days. Maps are included with purchase and plenty of signs are posted to streamline the self-guided tour.

Gloria Santoyo Ruenitz, Todos Santos Open Studio Tour, Baja, Mexico

Gloria Santoyo Ruenitz

The choices of what to see are practically endless: paint, mixed media, encaustic, wood carving, metal sculpture, stone work, jewelry, fibers, photography and more. The hardest part might be deciding which studios to choose from and if it is possible to get to them all in two days. From the south end of town all the way through the north end of el Otro Lado, there are artist studios tucked away that hold treasures undreamed of.

To help plan your tour, browse the Facebook page Todos Santos Open Studio Tour to see some samples of the different work. Seasoned veterans of the tour often make a list of names to help plan a route, making sure to visit their favorite artists along with some new ones. Others prefer to just wing it, leaving it open to the serendipity of the moment.

Besides spending the day immersed in creativity, the tour is a chance to explore what it is like to be an artist in the beautiful pueblo mágico of Todos Santos. It is the personal interaction with the artists that makes this tour so special. What inspires them? What brought them here and why do they stay? How did they begin and what story do they have to tell?

Sculptor Benito Ortega was drawn to Todos Santos eight years ago by ‘a vibration in the air.’ Nine year resident, encaustic artist Gloria Santoyo Ruenitz stays because life is simple and she can spend the mornings lost in the passion of creativity. The positive energy of the light and the people is just part of what keeps painter/teacher Tori Sepulveda enthralled with Todos Santos, even after 10 years.

As a kid flipping burgers at the foot of the Newport Beach pier Peter Holden probably never imagined himself living and painting in Baja California Sur for over a decade. Did Anne Hebebrand envision herself  experimenting with diverse tools such as spatulas, rubber shapers, paint rollers, and palette knives on canvas when as a young girl she was a waitress at a Mexican restaurant?

Susan Doyle says, “My favorite part of painting is the point when you think it is awful and you’re about to give up and then some magical accident happens and it clicks.” For Nanette Hayles she loves all parts of the creative process but “getting ‘lost’ in a piece when time ceases” is her favorite. Steve Thurston says that the best painting is always the one he’s currently working on.

Landscape artist Marsha Dahlquist is entranced with street scenes and the challenge of painting architecture, while Jill Mollenhauer expresses emotions with vibrant colors and mixed media.

Whichever studios you visit, you are sure to find both talent and heart. Between the well-known galleries in town and the numerous hidden gems in the barrios there are delights and surprises waiting just for you.

Here are a few helpful tips to make it even more enjoyable: Some studios are clustered near enough that parking and walking is viable. Perusing the neighborhoods is a wonderful way to get a feel of the community. Or consider carpooling–everything is more fun with friends. Wear comfortable shoes and a hat and don’t forget the sunscreen! Cold drinks and delicious meals can be purchased in town and for even more fun, consider staying the night at one of the area boutique hotels.

For more information: ts.studiotour@gmail.com

Happy New Year

"Baja's first Rock Band" Journal del Pacifico Holiday 2015/2016 cover by Dennis McGhee, Baja, Mexico

“Baja’s first Rock Band” Journal del Pacifico Holiday 2015/2016 cover by Dennis McGhee

Happy New Year from Journal del Pacifico! We’ve received a lot of compliments on our Holiday 2015/2016 issue cover featuring the hand painted skull by artist, “Indian” Dennis McGhee.

The 2016 La Poza Lagoon calendars are available at El Tecolote bookstore in Todos Santos and Allende Books in La Paz. These beautiful calendars help support the efforts to save La Poza lagoon and feature photography by Claude Vogel, Kaia Thomson, Alvaro Colindres and others.

The 5th annual Todos Santos Music Festival with Peter Buck and friends takes place January 14 to 16, and January 20 to 23. General admission is available for all shows. There is also a special acoustic dinner show at Rancho Pescadero on January 19. Contact Rancho Pescadero for tickets and more information. You can read the entire feature including artist’s bios online at journaldelpacifico.com

The new La Morena Restaurant Bar, located on calle Juárez in Todos Santos, just down the street from Galería Logan and Snell Real Estate, is open for breakfast, lunch and tapas. They serve espressos, ristrettos, lungos, lattes, frappes, chais, smoothies, paninis, healthy salads as well as tacos and other entrees. In the evenings, enjoy an appetizer with wine, served by the bottle or by the glass. Cold beer, margaritas, cocktails or a cool martini are also on the menu.

La Bohemia Hotel Pequeño on calle Rangel in Todos Santos, is having an open house every Thursday and Saturday from 4 to 8 pm with delicious treats from Mama’s Kitchen and special cocktails and wine 2 for 1 from 4 to 6 pm.

Landi’s Restaurant, next to Teatro Márquez de León on the plaza, is open Tuesday through Saturday, 12 to 9 pm, serving delicious traditional Mexican dishes. They are also open 9 am to 2 pm for their special Sunday brunch.

If you’re looking for a sweet treat for the holidays, or anytime, Chocolates La Laguna in Todos Santos, has champagne truffles, pumpkin spice truffles, and white chocolate bark with cranberries.

México Gourmet in Todos Santos has a variety of Mexican made edibles including spices, jams, jellies, moles and salsas, and is well known for its large stock of mescales. Stop in for a tasting!

Étnica, across the street from La Copa and The Todos Santos Inn in downtown Todos Santos, has beautiful Mexican clothing, accessories and fabulous tooled leather purses, wallets, boots and more.

Casita Anita has moved. The new, spacious location is on calle Militar in Todos Santos, next door to Gallery 365. Her new location has a whole new look that includes more room for Pepita Nelson Fashions.

Santa María Boutique has a large selection of 100% cotton fashion clothing for men, women and children at their two locations in Todos Santos—in Plaza Adriana across from the Centro Cultural and Plaza Los Faroles, just ½ block from the Hotel California.

You can take control of your water and your health. Water Ways Baja is your home town drinking water resource. Residential or commercial, all systems are custom designed based upon contaminants in your water and your needs. Water test results are in writing from independent certified water laboratories.

Unwind and rejuvenate your spirit at Casablanca b&b on the La Poza hill in Todos Santos. Guests enjoy their elegant accommodations, delicious meals or the chance to simply relax by the pool.

Restaurant Miguel’s across the street from Shut Up Frank’s, has long been famous for their chilies rellenos, fresh seafood and traditional Mexican fare. Now they are open for breakfast again, 8 am to 10 pm, Tuesday through Saturday.

The new rooftop Riptide Bar at Desert Moon Hotel at Cerritos beach is open. Stop in for an adult beverage and a great view any time from 9 am to 10 pm.

There’s something for everyone to fall in love with at Cerritos Beach Inn. Located just steps from the swimmable beach and surf break at Cerritos beach in Pescadero guests can also enjoy ocean, mountain and desert views and whale watching. There are brand new ocean front and desert view suites, as well as a restaurant and pool. Cerritos Beach Inn is also available for wedding and special events.

MiniSuper Munchies in Pescadero is much more than a gourmet store. There is a book exchange, lending library, community bulletin board, and pop up dinners with local chefs. Check with Emily on their weekly events.

There’s always something going on at Dana’s Diner on the highway in Pescadero. Daily happy hour, NFL football, guest chef nights, live music and karaoke nights. Call or stop in and check with Dana for more information.

Want coffee? Baja Beans Roasting Company in Pescadero is now open every day from 8 am to 4 pm.

Brody’s Pizza on the road to Cerritos beach is open 1 to 10 pm and serves Italian style wood oven pizza, pastas, salads and cold beer! Home delivery is available too.

The 7th Annual 2016 Todos Santos Open Studio Tour will be held over two days: Saturday and Sunday February 6 and 7 from 10 am to 4 pm. It’s a great way to explore the world of the artists, who live and work in this artists’ colony. Tickets for the Todos Santos Artist’s Studio Tour are good for both days and can be purchased online at www.brownpapertickets.com or in person at El Tecolote Bookstore beginning February 1. Maps and wristbands can be picked up at Cafélix both mornings of the Studio Tour. All proceeds will benefit the Children’s Art Programs of the Palapa Society of Todos Santos A.C.

We’d like to especially thank our translators that make it possible to publish many of our feature stories in English and Spanish: Paula Angeloni, Elena Ascencio Ibáñez, Kat Bennett, Isabel Jáuregui and Vivianne Jáuregui Mariño. ¡Gracias!

We’ll see you in February 2016 with our Festival issue. The deadline is January 12. Reserve your space today!